Tested by fire

Middle East | Gaza’s sturdy but small Christian population confronts Islamic militancy and the Israeli blockade | Mindy Belz

Associated Press/Photo by Hatem Moussa

GAZA CITY—From Erez Crossing, a gray wall of forbidding concrete stretches as far as the eye can see, dotted with observation towers. The road to Gaza and up to this, the main checkpoint into Gaza from Israel, winds through lush croplands. Acres of winter wheat give way to almond trees, figs coming into leaf, peach trees in blossom, and orange groves filling the air with their heady fragrance.

At the checkpoint the fecund landscape comes to an abrupt end. If the Israeli government has granted you a permit to cross the border into Gaza, as it has granted me, then you present your passport, enter through a series of barbed wire and concrete barriers, and go into the terminal—a cavernous hangar that is eerily quiet except for the slamming of metal doors.