War & peace

Death | John Garang led south Sudan from the brink of annihilation to the threshold of freedom | Mindy Belz

The road to John Garang's compound in south Sudan always is an obstacle course of natural and manmade predators. Taut twine signals security checkpoints. Jackrabbits by dozens slow an otherwise break-neck journey. Unbridged streams climb their beds on a moment's notice during seasonal rains.

"One day this will be the Cape Town to Cairo highway," joked a South African businessman. It was near midnight and he was on his way to meet Mr. Garang, leader of one of the longest-lived rebel movements in the world. He sat wedged into the back seat of a Land Cruiser next to me and a guard with an AK-47. The guard looked barely 18. He nodded off, slumping onto my shoulder, the business end of his weapon nudging my knees. Two other armed guards, riding outside on the rear bumper, appeared more alert.